15/08/2023 10:15:50
Grounding Stud - Front Rail (Restore)
Correction Code 10102608
Special tools required for this procedure:
Part Number | Description | |
1127193-00-A | Kit, ground stud repair | |
1127191-01-A | Setting tool, hydraulic, M8 riv-nut | |
1081542-00-A | Wire brush North America, APAC only | |
1054112-00-A | Tool, wire scratch brush Europe only | |
1080583-00-A | 3/16" center punch | |
1099760-00-A | Lube, cutting 4 oz North America only | |
1099760-01-A | Lube, cutting 8 oz Canada only | |
1106057-00-A | Lube, cutting 400 g Canada only | |
1080554-00-A | Hand reamer / deburring - 3/4" head North America, APAC only | |
1080554-01-A | Hand reamer / deburring tool Europe only | |
1076927-00-A | Resistance meter, microohm, Hioki RM 3548 | |
1028556-00-A | Primer, self-etching, green 15 oz North America, APAC only | |
1111025-00-A | Primer, self-etching, green lq, 946 mL Europe only | |
1118500-00-A | Riv-nut M8, THK HD | |
1120017-00-A | Bolt, HF M8X29 |
If the original grounding stud resistance is greater than 0.1 milliohms, use this procedure to install a rivet nut to restore the electrical connection.
Warning
Drilling outside of the area specified in this procedure might compromise vehicle crash safety.
Note
The illustrations in this procedure show a LH front rail. Locations are similar
for the RH front rail
CAUTION
For Europe only: Only
technicians who have been trained in working with diisocyanates and have completed
all required certification courses are permitted to perform procedures using
urethane and other products containing diisocyanates. Proper personal protective
equipment (PPE) must be worn when working with products containing diisocyanates.
Repair
- Use a wire brush to clean all corrosion from the grounding strap connector. If the remaining connector is severely pitted or deformed, replace the connector.
-
Use a center punch to mark a safe location on the front rail for the rivet nut to attach:
-
Vehicles with octagonal front rails: :
CAUTIONDo not restore any ground stud that is not illustratedWarningDo not drill in the original stud location. Do not drill forward of 13 cm from the front of the rail.- If necessary, remove the original stud.
- Mark the original stud location.
-
Vehicles with square front rails: :
WarningDo not drill in the original stud location. Do not drill forward of 13 cm from the front of the rail.CAUTIONDo not restore any ground stud that is not illustratedMark a point that the grounding strap can touch that is not within the red areas displayed here (click to enlarge):
CAUTIONDo not drill in the red areas in the figure. Drilling in these areas damages the internal front rail cross-supports.For example, mark a point that the grounding strap can touch in this location:
- Along the lengthwise centerline (11 cm from the top edge) of the inboard side of the front rail +/- 2 cm.
- As far toward the rear of the vehicle as possible.
-
-
Use cutting oil and the step drill bit to start a hole at the mark made earlier.
CAUTIONDo not use excessive force on the drill. Use steady, medium pressure and drill speed to allow the drill bit to cut the material. If the pressure on the drill is excessive or the drill speed is too low, the cut hole is more likely to be torn and out-of-round.
- Use the 13.5 mm (17/32 in) reduced shank drill bit to enlarge and finish the hole.
- Use the deburring tool to clean and chamfer the drilled hole.
-
Use a small-diameter (50 mm, 2 in) medium-abrasive surface conditioning disc to remove the e-coat from around the hole.
WarningRemove the e-coat in a well-ventilated area. Wear suitable personal protective equipment.CAUTIONDo not use a conditioning disc that has been used on any material other than e-coat and aluminum.CAUTIONWithin 2 hours of removing the e-coat, prime all abraded areas. If the abraded areas are not primed within 2 hours, they must be abraded again to remove any oxidation.
-
Use a clean towel to remove dirt and debris from around the hole.
-
Use an isopropyl alcohol (IPA) wipe to remove oil from around the hole.
CAUTIONWipe off the remaining isopropyl alcohol with a clean, dry towel immediately after application.
-
Use the rivet nut hand or hydraulic installation tool to install the rivet nut into the hole. Make sure that the rivet nut is seated flush to the surface of the front rail.
Option 1: Hand installation tool Option 2: Hydraulic installation tool CAUTIONIn these steps, do not use a wrench to tighten the rivet nut tool unless otherwise instructed.- If necessary, turn the hollow bolt counterclockwise into the nut to assemble the tool.
- Insert the long bolt through the hollow bolt of the assembled tool.
- Thread the M8 cap screw into the rivet nut and hand tighten.
- Insert the rivet nut, with the tool attached, into the hole.
- Use a 22 mm open end wrench to hold the nut.Tip: If needed, a clamp can be used to brace the wrench across the front rail.
- Use a torque wrench with an 18 mm deep socket to turn the hollow bolt clockwise (torque 55 Nm).CAUTIONThe tool must remain perpendicular to the hole during the install.
- Remove the long bolt from the tool to release the rivet nut.
- If necessary, install the threaded stud adapter onto the tool.
- Attach the rivet nut to the tool with the face of the rivet nut toward the tool.
- Insert the rivet nut, with the tool attached, into the hole.
- Squeeze the larger handles together to pump the tool. Pump until the handles click and stay together.CAUTIONThe tool must remain perpendicular to the hole during the install.
- Squeeze the smaller handle to release pressure from the rivet nut.
- Turn the knob on the tool to remove the tool from the rivet nut.
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Use the Hioki resistance meter to measure the face of the rivet nut to the abraded aluminum surface of the front rail for resistance in milliohms.
- If the value displayed is greater than 0.1 milliohm (0.0001 ohm), measure at another location.
- If the value displayed is still greater than 0.1 milliohm, replace the rivet nut.
-
Use the new grounding strap bolt to secure the grounding strap to the rivet nut (12 Nm). If necessary to fit, restack the wires in the new hole.
NoteThe rivet nut requires more torque than the original grounding stud.
-
Use the Hioki resistance meter to measure an exposed spot on the grounding strap connector to the same abraded aluminum surface of the front rail for resistance in milliohms.
- If the value displayed is greater than 0.1 milliohm (0.0001 ohm), measure at another location.
- If the value displayed is still greater than 0.1 milliohm, replace the rivet nut.
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Paint the abraded area.
Option 1: Spray paint Option 2: Brush paint - Remove the wires from the new hole.
- Mask the face of the rivet nut.NoteFor optimum grounding, the face of the rivet nut must be clean and clear of any paint.
- Mask any other components in the area.
- Spray 3 coats of self-etching primer on all abraded aluminum. Wait 5 minutes between coats.CAUTIONMake sure there is no exposed aluminum.
- Use the new grounding strap bolt to secure the grounding strap to the rivet nut (12 Nm). If necessary to fit, restack the wires in the new hole.
- Mask any components in the area.NoteFor optimum grounding, the face of the rivet nut must be clean and clear of any paint.
- Carefully brush up to 6 coats of self-etching primer on all abraded aluminum. Wait 6 minutes between coats.CAUTIONMake sure there is no exposed aluminum.
- After the primer completely dries, remove the mask material.