Removing a Component

Removing a component may include any or all of the following:

Removing fasteners such as self-piercing rivets, blind structural rivets, bolts, HUCK BOMs, pins and collars, or RIVTACs.
Detaching spot welds, laser welds, or bonded components.
Opening hemmed flanges.
Sectioning and removing the original component.
Warning
When removing a component that covers another component, cut only the component being removed. Do not cut underlying panels unless directed to do so in the repair procedure.
Preparing the Repair Area before starting the repair procedure.

Once the old component has been removed, continue the repair by preparing to install the new component.

Removing a Self-Piercing Rivet (SPR)

If necessary, remove paint, sealers, or adhesives to expose the rivet location.
Identify all the self-piercing rivet (SPR) locations securing the component to be removed.
Note
Factory SPR locations shown are approximate. Exact SPR locations and number vary from vehicle to vehicle.
Remove the SPR using one of the following methods.
- Use a dedicated SPR removal tool to punch the rivet out of the component.
- Use a drill with a high-strength steel bit to drill out the SPR.
Note
When drilling completely through an SPR, do not use a bit larger than the hole size specified for the replacement fastener.
Use a belt sander to grind down the head of the SPR enough to remove the component being replaced.

Removing a Blind Structural Rivet

If necessary, remove paint, sealers, or adhesives to expose the rivet location.
Identify all the factory blind structural rivet locations securing the component to be removed.
Use a metal punch to punch out the center pin of the rivet.
Use a drill with a 6.7 mm bit to drill out the head of the rivet.
Use a metal punch to punch the remnant of the rivet into the empty cavity under the component being replaced.

Note
If there is access to the cavity, remove the fastener remnant.

Removing a RIVTAC

Identify all RIVTACs to be removed.
Remove any paint, sealers, or adhesives to expose the RIVTAC location.
Grind down the head of the RIVTAC until it is flush with the surrounding surface.
Use a metal punch to punch the stem of the RIVTAC into the cavity under the component being replaced.

Note
If necessary, drill out the remaining portion of RIVTAC using a bit the same size as the RIVTAC stem.
If possible, remove the remnant of the RIVAC stem from the cavity under the component being replaced.

Removing a HUCK BOM or a Pin and Collar

Identify all the factory HuckBOM or Pin and Collar fastener locations securing the component to be removed.
Use a grinding tool to grind down the head of the fastener until it is flush with the surrounding surface.
Use a metal punch to punch the fastener into the empty cavity under the component being replaced.

Note
If there is access to the cavity, remove the fastener remnant.

Detaching a Spot Weld

Note

Factory spot weld locations shown are approximate. Exact spot weld locations and number vary from vehicle to vehicle.

Identify all the factory spot weld locations securing the component to be removed.
Use a drill with a spot weld bit to drill out the factory spot welds. Use a belt sander to sand down any factory spot welds that cannot be reached with a drill.

CAUTION
Drill, grind, or sand only through the thickness of the component being removed unless directed differently in the procedure.

CAUTION
When drilling through a spot weld, use a drill bit that will create a hole correctly sized for the fastener that will replace the spot weld.

Warning
Use only sanding wheels and belts that are 80 grit or finer on aluminum components. Using sanding wheels or belts that are coarser than 80 grit can cause fractures in the aluminum.

Detaching a Laser Weld

Identify all laser weld locations securing the component to be removed.
Use a belt sander or grinding wheel to grind through the laser weld on the component being removed.

Note
When removing laser welds, grind only through the thickness of the component being removed.

Separating a Bonded Component

Confirm that all mechanical fasteners securing the component have been removed.
Use a heat gun to heat the adhesive joints, and then use a hammer and a flat chisel to remove the original component.

Warning
Do not heat any adhesive joints of components that are not being removed. Heating adhesive joints weakens the adhesive bond and could compromise vehicle crash integrity.

Warning
Do not heat the adhesive on a bonded panel above 100°C (212°F) unless that panel is being removed. Heating the adhesive above 100°C (212°F) can weaken the adhesive bond and compromise vehicle crash integrity.

Note
Save the old component if needed as a guide for trimming the new component or for fabricating a butt joint backing plate.
If a factory foam dam is attached to a component that is being removed, use a heat gun to heat the outer surface of the foam dam area to aid in separating it from the component. If a new foam dam is not provided on the replacement component, the foam dam from the original component will be reinstalled.
Use a disc or belt sander with a surface conditioning abrasive product to remove any remaining surface materials from the mating surfaces.

Warning
Remove the e-coat in a well-ventilated area. Wear suitable personal protective equipment.

Warning
Use only sanding wheels and belts that are 80 grit or finer on aluminum components. Using sanding wheels or belts that are coarser than 80 grit can cause fractures in the aluminum.

CAUTION
Beware of cross-contamination. Do not use the same equipment to remove epoxy from aluminum and steel. Cross-contamination might result in galvanic corrosion.
Vacuum any adhesive dust.

Separating a Hemmed Flange

Use a grinding tool to grind through the edge of the hemmed flange to free the component from the vehicle.

Preparing the Repair Area

Remove any seam sealer, butyl patches, noise deadening materials, or structural foam in the repair area.